One Day in Dublin, Ireland爱尔兰都柏林一日游

宁克·克罗克　张菊/译介

【导读】让人“见之即爱”的城不多，爱尔兰首都都柏林是其中之一。这个被联合国教科文组织命名为“文学之都”的首府城市有怎样的似水年华呢？来个一日游领略一下吧。

Of all cities Ive ever visited， Dublin in Ireland was definitely one of the easiest to love right away. Its quite big but easy to get around （even on foot）. On terms of what to do in Dublin in a day， you can definitely pack it full of activities.

我游览过的所有城市中，爱尔兰的都柏林绝对是让人见之即爱的一个。都柏林相当大，但即便是步行，游逛起来也很方便。都柏林一日游游什么，有一点确凿无疑：你完全可以把这一天安排得满满当当。

MORNING IN DUBLIN

一日游上午篇

Breakfast in Dublin

都柏林早餐

One of the best places to decide what to do in Dublin for a day is when you start your adventure over a nice breakfast， either in your hotel or at the little Keoghs Cafe. Here， they serve the best muffins Ive ever tasted and have a wide variety of teas and coffees to go with it. I heard the scones are also heavenly.

都柏林一日游的最佳打开方式，莫过于一顿美味早餐。早餐最佳地点是你住的酒店或名为基奥的那家小咖啡馆。基奥咖啡馆供应我吃过最好吃的松饼，配以各种茶和咖啡，我听说那儿的烤饼也美妙绝伦。

Trinity College & The Book of Kells

圣三一学院和《凯尔经》

After breakfast I would head over to one of the places thats most popular to visit and can get crowded with tourists later in the day： Trinity College. Its just around the corner from Keoghs and unmissable on your day trip to Dublin.

早餐后，我會前往最受欢迎的游览地：圣三一学院。稍晚点，那儿便会游人如织。圣三一学院就在基奥咖啡馆附近，是都柏林一日游不容错过之地。

Once youve found the entrance （a big wooden door）， its great to stroll over the campus and see the students go about their daily routines. But of course the main attraction here is The Book of Kells1. This 9th-century gospel manuscript and the Old Library2 from the 18th century are just incredible and a “must see”.

找到入口（大木门）之后，便可信步校园，看学子们往来穿梭日常活动。当然，这儿最吸引人的是《凯尔经》。这部9世纪的福音书手稿以及建于18世纪的“老图书馆”非同凡响，一定要看。

In the library， youll feel a bit like Belle in Beauty and the Beast， wanting to sing and dance around. Of course， you have to be quiet though… Its still a library！ The winding staircase in the 65-meter Long Room is my absolute favourite， although the busts of famous people like Francis Bacon， Cicero， William Shakespeare， John Locke， Isaac Newton， Plato and Socrates （to name a few） add also something magical to the scene. And do I even have to mention the 200，000 of the Librarys oldest books that are stacked up from ground to ceiling？ Oh my！

在图书馆，你会觉得自己有点像《美女与野兽》中的贝儿，想四处载歌载舞。但你必须保持安静……这毕竟是图书馆啊！尽管弗朗西斯·培根、西塞罗、威廉·莎士比亚、约翰·洛克、艾萨克·牛顿、柏拉图和苏格拉底（仅举其中几位）等名人的半身像也为这一场景增添了一些神奇的色彩，但65米长的“长厅”中旋梯绝对是我的最爱。我一定得说说图书馆最古老的20万本书，它们从地上堆到了天花板！天哪！

Apart from the Long Room in the library， the centerpiece of the exhibition is The Book of Kells itself. It was written around the year 800 AD and contains a stunning decorated copy of four gospels in a Latin text. It used to be a single volume， but it was rebound in four volumes in 1953 for conservation reasons. In all， there are 340 folios （680 pages）. Two of the volumes are normally on display， one opened at a decorated page， the other at a text opening and pages are kept being turned over.

除了图书馆的“长厅”，展品中最博眼球的是《凯尔经》。该书大约写于公元800年，由四册装帧华美的拉丁文福音书组成。它以前只有一卷，1953年，出于保护的原因被重新装订成了四卷。总共有340对开页（680页）。四部中的两部对外展示：一部在插图页处打开，另一部在文字页处打开，每天（由工作人员）翻页展出。

AFTERNOON IN DUBLIN

一日游下午篇

Lunch in Dublin

都柏林午餐

Lets continue our Dublin day itinerary with a great place for lunch： Brick Alley Cafe in the Temple Bar area. They have great fruit shakes， sandwiches and bagels. And they serve the most amazing white hot chocolate youll find in Dublin.

让我们继续都柏林一日游行程，在一个很棒的地方来顿午餐：圣殿酒吧区的砖巷咖啡馆。那儿的水果奶昔、三明治和贝果都很棒，还有都柏林最棒的热白巧克力。

The whole of Temple Bar is just great to walk around， see some street art and have a sneaky pint before you continue your explorations.

继续下午的探索之旅前，整个圣殿酒吧区都值得走走逛逛，看看街头艺术，悄悄喝上一杯。

Another lunch option could be Bretzel Bakery. Its a great bakery in Dublins old Jewish quarter， perhaps the best of the city. They have everything from （kosher） wholegrain to olive and walnut loaves and Irish brown soda. Dont miss the sweet selection of buns， sponges， tarts and cakes.

另一个可以吃午餐的地方是布雷策尔面包店，都柏林老犹太区一家很棒的面包店，也许是都柏林城最好的。从（符合犹太教食规的）全麦面包到橄榄核桃面包，再到爱尔兰苏打面包，应有尽有。不要错过甜甜的小圆面包、海绵蛋糕、果馅饼和蛋糕。

The Guinness Storehouse

健力士黑啤展览馆

Now lets head over to one of the most famous attractions in Dublin： The Guinness Storehouse3， definitely a must-visit in Dublin in one day， even if youre not a beer drinker. There is an interactive exhibition when you enter the building. On 7 stories4 of the insanely amazing designed building， you go through 260 years of Guinness history and of course you can taste it in their restaurant and cafe. Dont miss the panoramic view on the top floors Gravity Bar.

現在，让我们前往都柏林最著名的景点之一：健力士黑啤展览馆。即使你不爱喝啤酒，这也绝对是都柏林一日游必到之地。进入大楼时，有一个互动展出。这栋八层楼的建筑极有设计感，可由此了解健力士黑啤260年的历史。当然，也可以在这儿的餐厅和咖啡馆尝尝黑啤。千万不要错过顶层的“重力”酒吧，在那儿能欣赏都柏林全景。

The Old Jameson Distillery

老尊美醇酿酒厂

The Old Jameson Distillery is another great place to visit， even if youre not a Whiskey5 drinker. At Jameson， you get to go through the entire history and production process of the distillery. The girl that led us around had a great way of explaining and cracked a lot of jokes. Typical Irish！ It ends with a tasting session， or you could head over to the restaurant or bar.

即使不喝威士忌，老尊美醇酿酒厂也是另一个值得参观的好地方。在此，可以了解酒厂的整个历史和生产过程。带我们游览的那个女孩能说会道，讲了很多笑话。典型的爱尔兰人！游览的最后环节是品酒，当然，也可以前往酒厂的餐厅或酒吧。

St. Patricks Cathedral

圣帕特里克大教堂

After all this sin6， its straight onto St Patricks Cathedral. I must admit that Im not into religion and perhaps even less interested in churches， but for the Saint Patricks Cathedral in Dublin I made an exception.

犯下这么多罪过（喝了这么多酒）之后，该直奔圣帕特里克大教堂（赎罪）了。我得承认，我对宗教并不感兴趣，对教堂也许就更不感兴趣了，但对都柏林圣帕特里克大教堂，我破例了一次。

St. Patrick was a 5th-century Romano-British Christian missionary and bishop in Ireland. Hes the primary patron saint of Ireland. On the site of the current cathedral， a stone church was built here by the Normans in 1191. This one was rebuilt in the early 13th century into the building that you can see today. It has been severely damaged by storm and fire a couple of times and has therefore been altered several times in between.

圣帕特里克是5世纪罗马—不列颠基督教传教士和爱尔兰主教，被奉为爱尔兰的主要守护神。1191年，诺曼人就在现在这个大教堂所在地修建了一座石头教堂。今天可以看到的建筑是13世纪初重建的。教堂曾几次受到风暴和火灾的严重破坏，因此在这期间多次重建。

Jonathan Swift， author of Gullivers Travels， was the dean of the cathedral from 1713 to 1745， hes buried in the church， next to his wife Esther Johnson.

《格列佛游记》的作者乔纳森·斯威夫特1713年至1745年间担任大教堂主持牧师。他与妻子埃丝特·约翰逊均安葬于此。

The National Museum of Ireland

爱尔兰国家博物馆

If you are a history buff， then The National Museum of Ireland is the place for you. It has four locations， of which three are in Dublin. I visited the Archaeology one， because my dad is an archaeologist and it always attracts me the most… and of course a little bit because it had free admission.

如果你是一个历史爱好者，那么爱尔兰国家博物馆就是你要去的地方。它有四个分馆，其中三个在都柏林。我参观了考古历史博物馆，因为我父亲是一名考古学家，这方面总是最吸引我……当然还有一点，因为该馆免费入场。

I really enjoyed this museum as it was a great introduction into the Celtic and Medieval art and you almost get to spend one day in Ireland itself. They covered prehistoric Ireland as well as the interesting Viking Age of Ireland， which I knew very little about myself， so I really enjoyed that.

我真的很喜歡这个考古馆，因为它对凯尔特人和中世纪艺术有很详尽的介绍，这儿就值得花上爱尔兰之旅几乎一天的时间。该馆涵盖了爱尔兰史前史及有趣的维京时代历史，我本人对那两段历史几乎一无所知，因此我真的很喜欢这里。

EVENING IN DUBLIN

一日游之傍晚篇

Restaurants in Dublin

都柏林的餐馆

In the evening， the Temple Bar area is a very lively place to eat and drink. There is always some live music going on， for example at the Temple Bar Pub. There are many pubs in the Temple Bar area， and we also visited Oliver St. John Gogartys for a nice pub dinner such as fish and chips.

傍晚，圣殿酒吧区是吃饭喝酒的好去处，那儿总有些现场音乐演出，比如与该区同名的圣殿酒吧就是演出地点。这一区域有许多酒吧，我们还去了奥利弗·圣约翰·戈加蒂酒吧，享用了一顿美味的酒吧晚餐，餐点包括炸鱼薯条。

For a more quiet dinner， I recommend The Green Hen. This lovely place is a French bistro offering classic dishes in a relaxed atmosphere. Rustic Stone is also a nice option. I really enjoyed dinner at this restaurant in the Creative Quarter of Dublin. I had the quail， because I never had that before， but found it too difficult to eat because its full of bones and barely got any meat of it. I did enjoy my main though， which was tuna steak on a hot stone that you could finish cooking yourself.

如果想来一顿安静的晚餐，我推荐“绿母鸡”。这是一家很不错的法国小酒馆，氛围轻松，菜肴经典。“粗石”也是一个不错的选择。我非常喜欢在都柏林创意区的这家餐厅用餐。因为以前从来没吃过鹌鹑，我点了鹌鹑，但我几乎无法下嘴，因为它全是骨头，幾乎吃不到肉。不过，我很喜欢我的主菜：一块热石头上的金枪鱼排，可以自己把它烤熟。

For dessert， perhaps try Murphys Ice Cream！ They were handing out samples just as I walked pass （ok， I quickly crossed the street when I saw that）. YumYum. These guys make natural ice-cream without any colourings， flavourings， or powdered milk and you can taste the goodness！

至于甜点，也许可以尝尝墨菲冰淇淋！他们分发免费试吃样品时，我刚巧路过（好吧，是我看到他们在发样品，便很快穿过了马路）。好吃极了。他们制作的是纯天然的冰淇淋，不加色素、香精或奶粉，你能吃出它的美味！

（译者单位：北京化工大学）